Concrete Contractors

Types of Foundation Repair

September 4, 2024September 19, 2024 Leyton Sumner

When you notice cracks or other signs of a foundation problem, it is important to understand the root cause and the available foundation repair methods. This way, you can choose the best option for your home.

If left unaddressed, foundation problems can become much larger and more expensive to repair. Luckily, there are a variety of foundation repair techniques that can fix these problems early on.

Concrete piles are typically long cylindrical or square structures made of concrete that are driven deep into the ground to support a structure. They can also be constructed from steel or wood and are installed through driving, drilling or jacking methods. Pile damage may occur due to corrosion, deterioration or cracking and can compromise their load-bearing capacity. Effective pile repair techniques should restore the structural integrity and load-bearing capability of the damaged piles to ensure safety and stability of the supported structure.

Concrete pilings and other specialized structural steel or timber piles are commonly used in Central Texas for building foundations, bridge piers, utility poles, and other applications that require substantial load-bearing capacity. Compared to traditional foundation repair methodologies such as complete removal and replacement, pile repairs can save significant time and money.

A common method for repairing damaged concrete piles is to encapsulate the pile in a jacket or shell, which reinforces the existing pile and protects it from further damage. The most common type of jacket is a high-strength epoxy that is applied to the surface of the pile and injected through a small hole at the bottom. This method is especially useful for piles that are subjected to extreme loads, such as those supporting large buildings in a seismic zone.

This method is more efficient and economical than complete removal and replacement of the damaged pile, but it requires special equipment and trained personnel. Another alternative is to replace the damaged pile with a new, larger pile that is designed for the application. This is often done for corroded piles in marine environments.

Many home foundation repair companies use concrete press piles to stabilize a house that has been damaged by shifting soils. The theory is that they can be pressed into the clay soils to a point where they will reach bedrock or competent load-bearing stratum, which can help prevent future movement of the house. However, a number of factors can affect the success of this method including soil conditions and the experience of the contractor. For example, most of these companies do not use gauges to measure depth and only state the maximum PSI (pressure per square inch) they will go. This is a very misleading number as it only indicates the amount of pressure the pile can take, not the actual load-bearing capacity.

Poured Concrete Piers

Piers made from poured concrete are common for foundation repair and provide stability to keep your home or business from sinking or settlement. To install these piers, crews dig circular holes below the existing foundation up to a suitable depth. Concrete is then poured into the hole and allowed to cure. After the concrete dries, hydraulic jacks are used to lift the foundation up to its original elevation.

Although piers are extremely stable, they do not last as long as slab-on-grade foundations. This is because the piers are exposed to the elements, which can cause them to deteriorate over time. In addition, the piers are susceptible to movement caused by soil changes in temperature and moisture.

If you’re considering having piers installed under your foundation, it is best to consult with a reputable company that has experience with local soil conditions. The company can conduct thorough soil testing and determine the best type of piers for your location. If you are going to have piers installed, make sure that the contractor takes precautions to limit water penetration and ensures that they are properly placed to prevent the shifting of your foundation.

Poured concrete piers are more expensive than other types of piers, but they are also a reliable option for many situations. They can also be installed more quickly than other pier types. Additionally, concrete piers don’t corrode as quickly as steel, which is another reason they are so popular.

In some cases, the problem with your foundation may not be severe enough to require a poured concrete solution. For this reason, many repair companies offer a method called slab jacking. Slab jacking is similar to concrete piers, except that instead of digging holes, the repair crew will drill into the existing slab and inject a slurry under it. This slurry is a mixture of concrete and polyurethane foam, which provides additional support for the existing slab.

Depending on your soil conditions, a helical pile or screw pier may be the best type of pier for your home. These piers are screwed into the ground to a depth that will support your building. They are more affordable than other pier options and work well in most situations. They can also be installed more quickly, which is why they are so popular.

Epoxy Injection

Epoxy injection is used for crack repair and structural repairs of concrete slabs, beams, columns, and walls. It is highly effective for stabilising and strengthening foundation cracks and voids and can also be used to strengthen bridge structures and rehabilitate ageing structures.

This low pressure to medium pressure crack injection method involves injecting a high-strength, low viscosity epoxy resin into the crack. It is designed to seal and structurally glue the concrete crack to sound concrete, restoring its load-bearing capacity. This repair is suited to both structural and non-structural cracks that are wider than a quarter of an inch. This method is a very cost-effective way to fix foundation wall cracks.

It is important to ensure the crack surface and surrounding areas are clean and dry before injection. The crack surface should be brushed with a wire brush and any surface contaminants such as oils, grease, or paints should be removed. The crack must be clean and dry in order for the paste-over epoxy to bond to the sound concrete. In addition, if water is continuing to seep through the crack, it must be stopped in order for the injection to yield a suitable repair.

Surface ports are then drilled into the cracks to form entry points for the epoxy resin. They may be surface mount or socket-mount, depending on the application. These ports are then sealed off with a capping paste and the injection process begins. Once the cracks are injected, it is important to monitor the epoxy movement through the ports and to stop when the port-to-port injection has reached the outer perimeter of the crack.

Unlike DIY kits, professional contractors will use multiple injection ports and 2-3x the amount of material included in a kit to fill larger cracks, ensuring they are effectively repaired with minimal leakage and movement over time. They will also guarantee their work with a warranty that is transferable should you sell your home or business in the future. This makes epoxy injection an excellent option for commercial and residential foundation repair issues, particularly in older homes with a history of basement flooding or cracking.

Underpinning

A sunken foundation can lead to a multitude of issues for a building, including structural damage. The causes for a sunken foundation include poor construction, soil changes, and even climate change. It’s important to have a foundation repair expert perform an assessment to determine which method is best for your foundation.

When a sunken foundation is due to weakened or shifting soils, underpinning can be an effective solution. Underpinning involves digging out areas of the soil underneath a building, and then inserting steel or concrete piers to transfer the load from the foundation to more competent load-bearing soil.

The most common underpinning methods are push piers and helical piers. The former are hollow cylinders of hot-dipped galvanized steel with a maximum load capacity of 68,000 pounds. These piers are pushed through holes in the existing foundation footer, and then driven deeper into the ground by hydraulic jacks. The piers are positioned to stabilize the foundation, and in some cases they can actually lift a foundation back into its original position.

Another type of underpinning is mini-piled underpinning, which uses a system of small precast concrete cylinders, or “shims” that are driven into the ground. These piers are similar to push piers, but they are shorter and are head with a wire and shims. A drawback to this approach is that the shims can shift and cause movement in the piers and the foundation.

Some underpinning projects require more extensive excavation of the soil beneath a building, and this is often the case when a building is close to a neighboring property. This can destabilize the foundation if the excavation cuts into the existing foundation footing.

Other types of underpinning include the use of grout and urethane-based chemicals that expand in the soil to raise the pavement, concrete or slab. This is sometimes referred to as soil jacking, but no reputable foundation contractor will claim that it can level the foundation to its original flatness.

Other signs of a failing foundation include doors and windows that don’t open or shut properly, walls that crack or bulge, and torn wallpaper. Contact a foundation repair specialist as soon as you notice any of these problems to prevent them from getting worse.

Concrete Contractors

Stained Concrete Adds Elegance to Existing Concrete

September 3, 2024 Flora White

Stained Concrete Dallas is an economical way to color existing concrete. Unlike paint, stain penetrates or reacts with the concrete to infuse rich, translucent tones that are resistant to moisture and UV rays.

Stains work best on new and old slabs with minimal cracks or blemishes. Both acid and water-based stains offer a variety of colors.

Concrete staining is one of the more nuanced, finicky and unpredictable decorative concrete techniques, but when it’s done well, it adds a level of elegance to any space. The key is meticulous surface preparation tailored to both topical and reactive stains, ensuring that the concrete is ready to accept the stain and achieve the desired results.

The surface must be free of grime, grease, oil, paint, coatings, curing membranes and any other substance that will inhibit the stain’s ability to penetrate and react. This is typically the most time-consuming and difficult step of the entire process. Using a concrete degreaser and scrub brush, the surface is thoroughly cleaned to remove any gunk, dirt or grease that has built up over time. In some cases, mechanical abrasion methods such as grinding or sanding may be required to ensure that the surface is fully clean and ready for staining.

Older concrete is often harder to prep, as it can be prone to cracking, chipping and other forms of disrepair. It also tends to absorb and hold stains differently than newer, more flexible concrete. This is why it’s critical to test a small section of the concrete before proceeding with the full application, to determine if the surface is capable of accepting and reacting to the stain.

Both acid and water-based stains are compatible with both new and old concrete, as well as plain or integrally colored surfaces. They can be used indoors and outdoors and on a variety of surfaces including floors, patios, pool decks and driveways.

For an added level of visual interest, secondary colors and antiquing effects can be applied to the concrete after the initial stain has dried. Stencils can also be used to create borders, patterns or designs on the concrete before the stain is applied.

Reactive acid stains use chemical reactions with the minerals in the concrete to produce earth-toned hues that are unique and dynamic. They can be applied on new and old concrete, as well as over existing sealers. Non-reactive water-based stains use pigments and acrylic polymers to fill the pores of the concrete, producing vibrant translucent finishes. These stains are low in VOCs and safer to apply than acid-based products.

Staining

Concrete staining is an excellent option for coloring concrete surfaces. It’s a permanent finish and it doesn’t chip or peel away like paint does over time. Staining is typically less expensive than other coloring options and it can yield a wide variety of colors and special effects.

There are two main types of concrete stains — acid and water-based. The staining process itself is relatively simple. The key is proper surface preparation. If the concrete is covered by grime, glues, coatings, curing membranes or sealers, it won’t be able to properly absorb the stain.

When choosing a staining product, it’s important to read the label. It should state whether the stain is reactive or nonreactive. Reactive stains contain metallic salts that react with the concrete’s lime content to produce a unique color. The chemical reaction with the concrete also creates a durable bond that resists chipping and scratching. This type of stain is perfect for achieving earth tones and natural-looking colors.

Water-based stains are formulated with acrylic polymers and pigments to fill the pores of the concrete. They are low in VOCs (volatile organic compounds) and safer to use than acid stains. They are ideal for new, plain or integrally-colored concrete and they work great indoors and out on everything from floors to pool decks.

Both acid and water-based stains are available in a wide range of standard colors as well as black, white and metallics. It’s also common to mix stain colors to achieve unique and interesting hues. When working with stains, it’s important to work in small areas and take the time to properly apply them. If you work too quickly, the stain can unevenly soak into the concrete and result in an unsatisfactory color.

Many people choose to stain concrete because of its durability. It’s an excellent choice for high traffic areas because it doesn’t chip or scratch as easily as other flooring materials. Additionally, stain is a great way to hide imperfections in the concrete such as cracks and blemishes. With a little maintenance, stained concrete will continue to look beautiful for years.

Sealing

As with paint, concrete stain will fade if not protected with a sealer. A good concrete stain and sealer combination protects the surface, prevents dirt from clogging pores and makes it easier to clean. A top coat also prevents fading due to UV radiation, heavy foot traffic or chemical exposure. Typically, a clear, water-based polyurethane or acrylic sealer is used to protect stained concrete floors. Aliphatic polyurethanes are one of the most durable options. They offer nearly twice the thickness of acrylic sealers and come in both matte and high gloss finishes. They are highly resistant to abrasions, chemicals, scuffing and staining and are suitable for indoor or outdoor use.

Staining concrete can create a whole new look, especially for surfaces that would otherwise be bare or covered with other materials such as wood or tile. It’s considered a green renovation because it reuses what is already there, rather than tearing up and starting over.

Stained concrete is relatively inexpensive compared to other flooring options and produces a custom, unique product. However, like any concrete slab, it is not indestructible and requires periodic maintenance and resealing.

A professional concrete contractor is well equipped to prepare, apply and cure the concrete for staining and can provide a variety of color options, both transparent and opaque. The best choice depends on the desired look and application.

Both acid and water-based stains can be applied to new or old, plain or integrally colored concrete. They can be used indoors or outdoors and on a wide range of projects including driveways, patios, pool decks, and garage floors.

Reactive stains (acid stains) utilize inorganic metallic salts and hydrochloric acid to penetrate the concrete to trigger a chemical reaction with its calcium hydroxide content. This creates a marble-like appearance and offers a wide spectrum of color tones from tans, browns, and blues to marbling effects. They require more safety precautions and experience than non-reactive stains, but yield beautiful, rich results.

Non-reactive stains are made up of acrylic polymers and pigments that do not rely on a chemical reaction to penetrate the concrete. They are typically applied with a brush or airless sprayer and can be dripped or dabbed for more textured designs. They can be translucent to almost opaque and are more consistent than acid stains.

Maintenance

Stains add color over bare concrete and sealers form a protective layer on the surface. These two steps make concrete floors much easier to clean than flooring materials like carpet and vinyl. Even so, no flooring material is completely maintenance free. Concrete, while sturdy and durable, is still a porous material that can soak up spills and harbor mildew if not cleaned immediately.

Regularly sweeping or dust mopping your concrete floors with a neutral pH cleaner can prevent dirt buildup and staining. Be sure to clean up any spills immediately and avoid using acidic or abrasive cleaners, which can damage the floor’s finish and concrete itself. Waxing can also help keep your stained concrete floors shiny and easy to clean. However, it is important to note that wax should not be used on outdoor concrete floors, as it can lead to cracks and pitting.

Unlike carpet, stained and sealed concrete floors are low maintenance, but they do require some care to look their best. To reduce wear, consider putting down an area rug in heavily trafficked areas. However, rubber backed throw rugs should be avoided because they can trap moisture under them and cause the concrete to become discolored and smelly.

If stains do occur, there are several cleaning techniques that can be used. For oil and grease stains, try a solution of water and baking soda. For rust stains, pour hydrogen peroxide onto the stain and let it sit overnight. You can then scrape it off with a plastic-edged scraper.